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Rise of Haute CoutureThe idea of fashion as we know it today began when Vogue launched a coverline of “Fashion, Manners, Society, The House, Literature, Art, Music, Drama” in 1892. As this coverline shows, fashion was just a small section of the magazine, as the industry was just beginning to take flight.
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Rise of Haute CoutureThe idea of fashion as we know it today began when Vogue launched a coverline of “Fashion, Manners, Society, The House, Literature, Art, Music, Drama.” As this coverline shows, fashion was just a small section of the magazine, as the industry was just beginning to take flight.
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Haute CoutureThe rise of haute couture - French for “high sewing” and implies the highest levels of quality and detail in clothing – began in Paris in the early 1900s. Upper-class women coveted the Parisian designs, setting the tone for the Western fashion world. Haute couture debuted at horse races and Vogue took on the responsibility of informing the public of these going-ons. Some big trends of this time were corsets and full skirts that
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When WWI began, attention and resources were drawn away from fashion. Thought British Vogue launched in its midst, during 1916, the economic consequences of the war made androgynous dressing more popular. One thing that did happen, however, was women's hemlines rose from above the ankle to mid-calf. Scandalous!
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Roaring 20sWhen WWI ended, women were used to their independence and freedom and the fashion choices that came with this. So their clothing still reflected the wartime masculinity through loose, shapeless fits and flattened busts – corsets were no longer in.
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While this decade is known for its flapper, she did not fully emerge until 1926. She epitomized modernity and reckless rebellion with her short hair, short shift dresses with exposed limbs (gasp!), makeup, cigarette holders and drinking in public.
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When the stock market crashed in 1929, the Great Depression overwhelmed Americans with economic failure. The general public escaped their troubles through the glamorous movies of Hollywood, and this is where most women pulled fashion inspiration.
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As WWII approached, clothing became more functional and military-inspired with square shoulders. The creation of ready-to-wear fashion also emerged at this time. Then during the war, cloth was severely rationed, so clothes were more restrained an uniforms were often worn in public.
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As the war ended, Christian Dior was making his mark on the industry and rebelled against the severity of the time by producing extravagant designs. This look was a fitted jacket with a cinched waist and full calf-length skirt and was dubbed the “New Look.” His designs quickly gained popularity as women were longing to dress femininely and frivolously again.
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Chanel countered Dior’s look with her tweed boxy suits and slim skirts. Synthetic fabrics (nylon, polyester and acrylic) became more used as they were affordable and easy to wash and care for. A consumer market was born and teenagers became a force in the fashion markets, most likely from music and film influences.
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During this time, the youth were the leaders. Two subcultures of young British people were at odds: the Rockers and the Mods. Rockers wore black leather jackets and the Mods were more bohemian. In 1966, designer Mary Quant made the miniskirt popular and appealing to bold young women.
In response, came the hippie movement in America, creating trends like bell-bottoms and tie-dyed shirts. The biggest fashion icons of this time were Jackie Kennedy, Twiggy and the Beatles. -
Fashion began to have more ethnic and global inspiration as travelling became easier. The disco dance craze required a wide use of polyester to create the tight, stretchy clothing. These flashy styles also reflected the social revolution and openness that defined the decade. As the late 70s rolled around, the punk movement began to take form.
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This decade was defined by materialism as the world was experiencing economic bang. The power suit became a symbol of the eighties and people flaunted their designer brands as symbols of wealth. Neon colors, bangles, leg warmers and cut-off sweatshirts became huge trends at this time. Madonna was one of the biggest musical and fashion icon. Princess Diana was also a fashion icon in the 80s.
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At this time, technology made working from home more plausible and “Casual Fridays” were implemented in some offices. Fashion also became more laidback and comfortable, in contrast to the bright colors of the 1980s. Minimalist style spurred in the 1990s with a lot of black and neutral colors and simple patterns. The fashion industry boomed and Calvin Klein used overtly sexual advertisements. Grunge also spawned a style of unkempt dressing.
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As we are still experiencing this era in fashion, one thing has been proven: fashion is cyclical. This era is known for taking recycled trends and putting a modern take on them: 1980s padded shoulders became the “architectural” shoulder; boot-cut and flared jeans are toned-down versions of bell-bottoms; and high-waisted shorts and pants have come back in style. Both real vintage and vintage-inspired clothes have become very popular.
