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History of Surfing

  • Early Evidence
    1101 BCE

    Early Evidence

    Early cave paintings in the 12th century indicate the start of surfing among ancient Polynesians. While surly the existence of the sport could be traced back even further, cave paintings of wave riders mark the start of the sport in early times. Body surfing is marked as the earliest form of surfing amongst humans.
  • Surfing in Hawaii

    Surfing in Hawaii

    Surfing was brought to Hawaii by the Polynesians and became a significant aspect of their culture. Everyone was able to surf; women, men, children, and even kings. The only regulation around the sport was specific spots where people could surf. When Hawaii was colonized by Christians, however surfing was not so popular for a very long time.
  • ‘The Duke’

    ‘The Duke’

    Duke Kahanamoku, a famous swimmer is known to be one of the best surfers Hawaii has ever seen. After his win in 1912 in the Olympics swimming, his advanced techniques were attributed to skills he learned in surfing. he then traveled all around the world to introduce surfing in regions where possible.
  • The Surfboard

    The Surfboard

    Technological advancements in surfing, made the impossible, possible. With the invention of the hollow surfboard, three fin systems, and fiberglass boards, surfing, saw the biggest and fastest growing advancements in all of history. This all came just in time for the immense popularization of the sport in both Australia and California.
  • Jack O’neil and The Wetsuit

    Jack O’neil and The Wetsuit

    Jack O’Neil, the inventor of the wetsuit made surfing in colder climate possible. Living in California, Jack O’Neill made huge advancements in the accessibility for surfers year-round and in many climates. The O’Neill surf brand still exists to this day.
  • The 50th State

    The 50th State

    In 1959 Hawaii became a part of the US making it the 50th state. Surfing was highly promoted to increase and encourage tourism to Oahu, Hawaii. This overall increased popularity in the sport significantly.
  • The Endless Summer

    The Endless Summer

    The first ever surf movie endless summer was released in 1966. This movie caused a huge rise in popularity of surfing in the media which also led to more attraction in real life. The virality of the sport in the media led to significantly more participants as time went on.
  • The Leash

    The Leash

    Another huge and very important, technological advancement in surfing was the invention of the leash. The leash keeps a writer attached to their board even when they wipe out. This invention also influenced accessibility largely.
  • A Shorter Board

    A Shorter Board

    as time went on, the boards got shorter. This solidified surfing in its place as being a modern competitive sport. Having a shorter board made more advanced tricks possible as longer boards are more suited for strictly riding abilities.
  • The Big Wave

    The Big Wave

    In 2000, Laird Hamilton rode the Millennium wave marking the first big wave surf and the start of a huge new aspect of the sport. In big wave surfing, tow boats are often used to allow for the surfers to get on waves faster than they could paddle due to the immense wave sizes.
  • Bethany Hamilton, Soul Surfer

    Bethany Hamilton, Soul Surfer

    In 2003 American surfer, Bethany Hamilton was attacked by a 14 foot tiger shark at the age of 13. At such a young age, she was just getting her career started which led to her immense determination to get back into surfing which she was able to do even missing an arm. Later the book and the movie “Soul Surfer” was produced, which gained great popularity, but also awareness to potential risks in surfing.
  • The Olympics

    The Olympics

    After a proposal in 2015 for surfing to be included in the 2020 Olympic Games, it was announced in 2016 that they would be included in these games in Tokyo. The international Olympic committee choosing to include surfing in the games was a huge accomplishment for the sport, pioneers, and modern participants.